The land of many trees

Guatemala.. "land of many trees" according to one source. I can take that. In fact I love that! I was slightly apprehensive about visiting this country but now I can't wait to go back! Witnessing the volcanoes erupting in front of my eyes, larva flowing down dramatically, smoke covering the air and it’s dramatic sound, which is a mixture of  waves hitting the shore and fireworks going off in the air. It's powerful. Bits of the Acatenenango volcano trek was literally the hardest I've ever done, and please note I consider myself to be a decent hiker! 

We wake up at 3.30 am to start climbing up the steep volcano and it’s one step forward, two steps back. The earth underneath is moving under my feet constantly so I'm holding onto my walking sticks even tighter. The altitude is also affecting body. My breathing is getting heavier. I was too cold 10 minutes ago but now I'm boiling hot. One simple yet essential piece of information that stayed in my mind from my very short experience with the mountaineering club at university was to wear lots of layers and (this is important) never be lazy to take them off and put them back on. Whenever I hike it's constant "on/off" for this reason but not on this occasion. I have no energy or time for that. The altitude is getting to me more and I don't want to be left behind. I’m holding a stick in one had and trying to hold the massive coat tied on my waist with the other as it keeps falling off. There is a moment when I feel a huge despair. I can neither go up nor go down.  I’m struggling to climb upwards but going back isn't even an option. One of those rare moments in life when I think there is no one that could help me ease my struggle as every single person was in the same boat except perhaps the tour guide. When in nature I feel at home and don't want to be somewhere else but I have to confess that by this point I’m dreaming I am back in London lying on my comfy memory foam bed nice and cosy. Ah how hard I wish that!

When the guide said we’re 2/3rd of the way someone asks if it'd get better from now on. He just laughs and said "no, even harder".. For the rest of the hike I concentrating on my breaths and my steps. Inhale: lift the foot up, exhale: put it down... Inhale, up...Exhale, down. Inhale...Exhale... It is slowly getting brighter now. I look to my left I see that the volcano is slightly lit up by the sunrise and the crescent moon is literally on the tip of it. It is a jaw dropping scene.  I’m in so much discomfort but what I was seeing was undeniably poetic. "Once I get to the top" I keep thinking "it will be all okay, I'll feel free, happy, and jolly." I imagined I'd jump around, hug people and say "we did it! We bloody did it. hooraay". But guess what? I when we get there I can't even move because it is just so freezing cold. The wind is hurting my face, I can't feel my toes or fingers. I’m wearing layers and layers of clothing under a massive ski jacket, a balaclava, ski gloves and several socks. (See me in style below!). I shelter behind a fella who is hiding behind a rock.. I can see the fascinating view from a tiny hole under his arm. I don't manage to take any photos because I can't take my camera out of my pocket for the fear that my fingers would freeze. So there is the erupting Fuergo on the right which looks like a beautiful painting with oranges, yellows, pinks and blues and then the glorious sunrise on the left. I’m surrounded by such beauty but the suffering is very real. Pain and pleasure I hear you say.

Then the sun rises over my battered body. It immerses me with a warmth like my mother’s embrace. I get rid of my layers that no longer serve me, one by one. My heart fills with excitement again. I am over the clouds in the most literal sense and I’m not cold anymore!! I jump and run to the next peak. I welcome back my bubbly self and let her enjoy the beauty of mother earth. Going down is super adventurous and fun. After a fair bit of stumbling, sliding down on my bum seems to be the best way. There are lots of giggles, little screams and sounds of falling rocks. I get covered in black ash all over. What a dirty and happy soul. When we finally make it back to the base camp, there my dream is waiting. A warm cup of tea and a delicious muffin. La dolce vita!

PP: I paid to do this hike with CA Travelers. Believe me, these guys are the best. All their excursions are run in the most ethical, environmental and local focussed way. The founder,  Faris, a young Guatemalan lady, is the loveliest, chattiest and most inspiring woman ever. She tells the story behind CA travelers at the beginning of the trip, and the way they operate. They are the first and only company with a female guide in Guatemala, thanks to Faris's persistent efforts.

From November 2019